Magic is one of those intangible, indefinable things, but everyone on our Turkish gullet agreed that our night in the ancient harbour of Knidos was, indeed, magical. After snorkeling above amphoras and other shipwreck artifacts more than 2,000 years old, hiking up to a lighthouse overlooking the Aegean for a sunset accompanied by the sweet red wine we brought along in a box, and a dinner of delicious Turkish delights (aubergine salad, fried hellim, assorted local seafood), we headed back to the ship. Overhead, we watched the longest lunar eclipse in more than a decade, and below, a rare occurrence – the water had become phosphorescent, the plankton in our calm harbour sparkling a neon green in the shadow of the moon.
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