It was the first serious moment of the trip. We had to make a decision – and, as we gathered around the long wooden table at the stern of our big Turkish sailboat, we knew that we had to make it now. After three days of lazy progress through the Dodecanese islands of Greece, we had reached a similar crossroads, so to speak, and Sidar, our affable Turkish guide, presented us with two very distinct options. On the one hand we could stick with our original plan and sail all the way to Santorini, but face a tough crossing over to the Cyclades islands, one that might include up to eight hours of high winds and rolling seas. Or, Sidar said, a smile creeping slowly across his face, he could show us something truly special – something that few visitors ever get to see.

Continued in the article below.