In a place that once saw fierce fighting, today they sing songs of peace. Despite the drizzle that has rolled in off the mountains, the mood on this Sunday morning in Suchitoto is celebratory. A long line of men, women and children, led by a small group draped in white robes, files slowly beneath the twin bell towers of Iglesia Santa Lucia, singing a hymn about angels, while in the square out front, a man launches a series of vara de cohete by hand – fireworks that sizzle and boom to mark Salvadorian special occasions.

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