It was on Sodermalm, Stockholm’s southernmost island, where I followed in the footsteps of Mikael Blomkvist and Lisbeth Salander, the protagonists in Stieg Larsson’s wildly popular The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. The island provides the setting for much of the action that takes place in the book and its two sequels, which unfold to reveal a city filled with cozy coffee ships, rollicking beer halls and low-key restaurants, where cobblestoned back lanes play host to late-night pursuits on foot.

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