Bangkok – Traffic is barely moving, the drivers stuck sitting in the six-lane gridlock in temperatures well above thirty degrees, green taxis and pink tuk-tuks and the endless, impatient flow of mopeds, all of them leaning on their horns.

I descend to a platform down just ten steps from the road; it feels like a secret stop.

A long, low boat with a blue hull and green canopy—glides out of the greenery down the canal, slipping under a bridge and pulling up to the pier just long enough for me to hop on.

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