When you visit these remote northern latitudes, you notice it right away. Perhaps it’s the built-up static electricity of a cold climate. Or the added magnetism, with the North Pole much closer than usual. But way up here, hundreds of kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, there just seems to be more energy. Every time you step outside, everything kind of crackles.

And that electricity is definitely in the air on this sunny but cold day, as we load off the gangway and into Zodiac boats. Anticipation hangs heavy as we make our way through the shallows at the mouth of Coningham Bay, at Prince of Wales Island, Nunavut. Here, with tundra in all directions, the sight lines seem to stretch forever, and everyone searches the shoreline for the kings and queens of the Arctic.